When are the best times to prune a tree?

* In winter

The leaves have fallen, the migratory birds have returned to the South and the temperature has already dropped below 0°C: nature is living in slow motion. Deciduous plants store their energy reserves in their roots.

Pruning at this time does not remove many reserves from the tree if the cuts are done correctly (always observe the collar and the wrinkle!). In addition, the waste resulting from pruning will be less.

On the other hand, the wounds caused in winter will not begin to compartmentalize until early spring.

For "muscular" types of pruning, such as cat heads and pollards, winter is preferable, outside of frost periods, while the reserves are protected in the roots. For this type of pruning, summer is not a good time.

Pollarded willows

All sources of energy production for the tree (the leaves), are eliminated; which is very detrimental to the tree.

* In the spring

For both hardwoods and softwoods, the sap, rich in energy, is transported from the roots to the branches.

The internal pressure is high and any pruning carried out from mid-March to the end of April causes excessive seepage, abundant shoots and risks of cavitation (intrusion of air bubbles into the vessels).

In addition, this is the nesting period for birds in our regions. In short, we do not prune trees in the spring!

Magnolia grandiflora

* In summer

As soon as the foliage is in place and once bud burst is complete (leaves and flowers). The trees are ready to be pruned ( late spring and all summer ). Their photosynthetic activity is optimal.

The trees will react directly to pruning and will quickly close the wounds caused by cutting (compartmentalization). If a small part of the foliage is removed (< 20% like thinning), the tree can initiate the rapid production of a ridge that will isolate the wound. It is therefore advisable to prune in summer (green pruning).

tree in summer

* In autumn

Pruning prevents the energy of the aerial parts from migrating to the roots. Pruning should be limited to dead wood and sanitary pruning (broken branches, split branches, etc.)

Regarding the slaughterings:

When you have land to clear, it is good to make the most of the wood that has taken so many years to grow on your land. So, lumber or firewood?

"Lumber" is wood dedicated to carpentry, framework and cabinetmaking (beech, oak, ash, sycamore maple, etc.).

First of all, you need a driveable access to be able to remove the logs.

It is preferable to fell trees in winter and even better, during the waning moon! (see lunar almanac)

The tracheids (sap channels) are at their minimum sap content.

The wood, after humidification to evacuate the sap and tannins, will have less water retention and therefore will "work" (deform) less. It will keep its shape to the great satisfaction of the cabinetmaker.

"Firewood" .

Winter or summer, it doesn't matter.

But on the other hand, it will be more appropriate to fell during the rising moon (see lunar almanac).

The sap channels (tracheids) will be full of sap.

The wood will be exposed to the elements (+ or - one month) in order to leach the sap out of the wood. And finally the wood piles (windrows) will be covered for drying. Only the top of the windrow (pile of split and stacked logs) should be covered. Indeed, the wind passing through the sides will dry your wood faster.

The well-expanded tracheids will give significant porosity to the wood and therefore significant combustion power.

It is important to dry hardwood for at least two years and for softwoods at least 3 years.